FAQ’s
PRODUCTION
Linseed oil paint is a completely natural product, made from only two ingredients: boiled linseed oil and naturally occurring pigments. It’s as simple as that! It’s an historically accurate and natural alternative to modern, petrochemical exterior paints. It’s a traditional paint used on many historical properties and is very popular in Scandinavian countries.
Linseed paint is always based on boiled linseed oil. Flax seed is pressed to make raw linseed oil, which is boiled to make it more durable and quick drying. We then add a small amount of drying agent and powdered pigments – which are all entirely natural. There’s no solvents, binders or synthetic emulsifiers.
Most external paints form an impermeable layer on top of the surface you’re painting, which may look great initially, but doesn’t wear well in the long term. This barrier prevents moisture trapped under the paint from escaping, which is why such paints flake and blister over time, subjecting the painted surface (wood, for example) to rot or develop mould.Linseed paint is a permeable layer, which allows moisture to wick away from the surface, preventing flaking, blistering and mould. An application of linseed oil paint is far more durable than that of a petrochemical paint.Here’s a short animation that explains exactly how it works
Yes. we do offer a bespoke colour match service in our Linseed Paint. Due to the manufacturing process, a Bespoke Colour Production Fee of £250.00 applies. The minimum order quantity is 3 x 2.5L tins, priced at £199.50 per 2.5L, (total of £598.50 for 7.5L) plus shipping charges. If you require additional paint in the same colour, you may add further 2.5L tins at £199.50 each as part of the same production run. All prices quoted are inclusive of VAT.
We are able to match colours from a number of manufacturers including Farrow and Ball, Little Greene, as well as RAL and NCS colour ranges. We would require a painted sample of the paint posting to us to be able to match to, the estimated lead time is approximately 2-3 weeks from receipt of both sample and payment.
Our colours are based on colours we have found in situ in historic properties and, therefore, we don't match these to any standard colour charts
Not a lot. It is whiter than Warwick’s Bench. Cambridge No 7 used to be our whitest, but that is now Project White which was introduced summer 2019. Restoration White is a bit warmer – Tatton Park is painted in Restoration White.
The SD value is around 75. At least, it starts out with a SD-value close to 75 and over time as the oil will perish it falls close to a SD-Value 0. SD-value describes how open a material is, if it allows the ground to breath (low SD-value) or not (high SD-value). It is measured in a scale where 100 = dense and 0 = open.
EXTERIOR PAINT APPLICATION
The coverage of exterior linseed paint is 15-20 m2 per litre, per coat. (33.8 fl. oz. covers 160-220 sq ft in one coat)
Coverage of the Iron Oxide Primer is the same as the Linseed Oil Paint at 15-20m2 per litre, per coat (33.8 fl. oz. per 160-220 sq. ft.). Coverage is slightly better on a metal surface i.e. nearer the 20 m2 per litre (220 sq. ft per 33.8 fl. oz.).
Linseed paint will adhere to exiting paint, but it will only perform as well as the paint it goes onto. Also, in order to get the full wicking properties, we always recommend removing the old paint first
Ideally, remove all of the existing paint, but if that is not possible, sand lightly and paint straight from the tin
Yes as long as the fillers are dry, linseed paint will adhere to it. Best to give them a light key before painting.
For repairs up to 1 cm deep, we recommend linseed putty. For larger holes, pack them with oakum first and finish with putty.
For windows and doors, we recommend 3 coats (1 primer coat and 2 top coats).
On bare timber, we recommend using a primer coat mixed to the following: 50% paint : 35% Raw Linseed Oil : 15% Balsam Turpentine. For more information, please have a look on our How To pages, as well as our YouTube channel.
On exteriors, in season, 1-2 days. The season runs typically in daylight saving time when the exposure to UV light is the strongest and longest.
This is completely normal, in particular after only 1 or 2 coats. The paint has absorbed more in areas where more of the old paint was removed and less in other areas. In that case, more coats is the answer. This will even out the different absorption levels and provide a more even sheen.
There is usually no problem with painting over stripped timber where Peelaway has been used, but it all depends on how well the surface has been rinsed / neutralised afterwards. If there is any residue left, this may react with the paint.
On exotic hardwoods use 50% paint, 35% raw linseed oil & 15% balsam turpentine for the 1st coat – paint the 2nd and 3rd coat straight from the tin.
The existing Exterior Range can be used on interior timber applications, like kitchen cabinets, skirting boards and floors. So, for this, we would recommend choosing one of the colours from the Exterior Collection. It is very hardwearing, but if you wanted to use a varnish on top of the paint (for kitchen doors), We would recommend Le Tonkinois. Not a product we stock but readily available from Amazon.
Yes. Linseed paint adheres to most substrates. Metal has an open surface (it is not completely smooth). Use Iron Oxide Primer for the first 2 coats, then finish with 2 coats of any colour from our Exterior Range.
Linseed oil paint will adhere to practically any substrate and we have painted the UPVC windows and door frames here at our premises.
Clean and degrease the surface thoroughly with detergent and paint straight from the tin in thin coats. Make sure you don’t paint over the black seal of the glazing as the oil will eat into it and only stick to the actual frame. For further details take a look at the diagram, using linseed paint with UPVC double glazing. Please note that the maintenance cycle on UPVC will differ from timber because linseed paint does not absorb into the substrate in the same way.
Linseed paint adheres to existing paint / primer. For the best results, we always recommend getting new timber supplied without any treatment at all.
Linseed paint will adhere to pretty much any substrate, including tanalised wood. If you can get timber supplied without tanalisation, that is great, however if not, linseed paint still works. It may reduce the maintenance cycle to 7-8 years from the standard 10-15 years.
Linseed oil paint will keep indefinitely. Keep the tin tightly sealed then once you have used some paint decant what’s left into a smaller container or place some cling film over the paint in the tin to prevent any air getting to it. A good stir when you use the paint again should be all that’s needed. Sometimes a skin can form on top. This is normal, just make sure you remove all the skin and stir before painting.
No, but you could mix two or more colours together. The paint mixes absolutely fine between colours.
Linseed paint is wicking, which is a small but important difference. Lime paint form instance is breathable, which means it can absorb and expel water (both ways). Linseed paint works more like GoreTex; it does not let water in but let's moisture wick out should it get in behind the paint.
Linseed paint does not contain VOCs drying agents, so drying take place by oxidisation. For this, it needs exposure to UV light and oxygen, which may extend the drying time indoors. Average drying times in season are 1-2 days.
Linseed oil products of any kind should never be in direct contact with double glazing seal (it will eat into it) so paint the rebate with acrylic paint (one coat would do) and sit the glazing units in that. Have a look at our diagram for more info.
Use shellac knotting primer on those areas. The older the timber the better – there is less bleeding on old timber. Bleeding is more pronounced when using white paint.
Wipe drips off straight away if possible – if old drips use sandpaper. If paint is dripping it’s likely that too much is being applied.
Prepare by stripping all old paint and varnish to bare wood if possible. If not concentrate on stripping the sill where most moisture sits. Paint over the putty and a lip onto the glass to form a seal between the glass and the frame. More detailed info is on our YouTube channel.
Linseed Oil Paint should be applied with a good quality brush, preferably made of pig bristle - this means the oil and pigment are worked into the wood rather than sitting on top of it as could be the case if the paint was sprayed on. We sell a variety of application accessories on our on-line shop. The grain size of the pigments might be on the large side for a spray gun. Usually, linseed paint gets applied by brush.
Linseed Oil Paint should be applied with a good quality brush, preferably made of pig bristle - this means the oil and pigment are worked into the wood rather than sitting on top of it as could be the case if the paint was sprayed on. We sell a variety of application accessories on our on-line shop. The grain size of the pigments might be on the large side for a spray gun. Usually, linseed paint gets applied by brush.
Yes, linseed oil paint would be perfect in this situation. All previous paint should be removed first and the linseed oil applied in very thin coats.
Linseed paint will work well on cured lime plaster, but we always recommend staying in the same family wherever possible, so in this case try using a lime wash
Both Interior and Exterior Ranges can be used for painting MDF. Bare MDF needs a thinned down coat first, whereas laminated MDF doesn’t. That just needs a light key and good degrease.
Absolutely, as this is what (timber) ships would have been treated with originally.
Fill any gaps with oakum. Paint everything in linseed paint 2-3 coats. Finish with Tonkin varnish in 7-8 coats. This all works on metal too.
Try and remove as much of the existing paint as possible by sanding it down with about 120 grit sand paper. Then, just apply the paint in thin coats until you have an even finish.
Yes, our linseed paint is definitely suitable for that application. It doesn’t contain solvents or phthalates. It does smell of linseed oil, but I suspect linseed oil may be something you already add to your horses’ diet, so they are probably used to that.
There are no known adverse effects on bee health. In fact, our paint gets used a lot on beehives!
You would need to use our Exterior Paint as this is extremely hard wearing. However, the Exterior Paint will take longer to dry indoors so make sure to paint stairs in alternate steps and only use it on floors which can be left to dry for about a week.
QUESTIONS RELATING TO LINSEED OIL
We wouldn’t recommend it outdoors as it’s the pigments in the paint that protects surfaces from UV breakdown and as linseed oil is organic there will be mould growth without the additional protection. Linseed oil on its own does not contain anti-mildew properties or protection against UV light, so we would always recommend applying a colour as it will last much longer. We do have a Nourish Wood Oil.
You can use linseed oil to protect fence panels but as linseed is a natural product it will go mouldy in sunlight so you will need to add zinc to the linseed oil to prevent this. This can be achieved by adding a small amount of our Project White or Cambridge No7 paints but not too much as the oil will go milky. Mix a small amount of paint around 5-10%. Or you can use our Nourish Wood Oil.
Completely clear linseed oil has the colour of honey. Once applied, it can make pale wood look darker and on certain types of pine yellow / light-brown. You can add some white pigment to linseed oil to take away the yellowing of the oil, without it looking white.
For interior floors and furniture, we would recommend our linseed oil based Interior Wood Stain.
For floors and furniture, we recommend our linseed oil based Interior Wood Stain Range.
Nourish Wood Oil is made of Boiled Linseed Oil, Tannins and Water.
15-20 m2 / L (161-215 sq. ft. / 33.8 fl. oz.)
You would need to re-oil approximately every 2-3 years, depending n the amount of sunlight it gets.
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Yes. Apply the oil as per instructions. It is best to leave the oil to dry for 2 weeks to ensure that it dries completely. To clean, use a mild solution of washing up liquid. If you spill on the table before the two-week drying period wipe it up straight away so it doesn’t stain the surface.
BRUSHES
Always use a natural bristle if you can. This provides a much better flow and even finish. Check our brushes.
The easiest way to keep brushes when working on a project is to suspend them in some raw linseed oil. – you can actually keep them like this for months on end.
We do sell a Krystal brown soap for cleaning brushes or you can use a mild detergent.
SPEEDHEATER PAINT REMOVAL
The Speedheaters use infrared to remove paint from almost all substrates. The temperature is between 110-160 degrees C. (compared to approx 900 for a hot air gun).
The advantage is that the infrared won’t scorch the wood or heat and potentially crack delicate glazing in window frames. The infra-red of the Speedheater will work well when stripping modern plastic paints. The main scraping tool for paint stripping is the boomerang scraper.
Product comes with a one-year manufacturer's guarantee (excluding bulbs).
A bulb can last up to 2,700 hours if treated well with no paint spilling on it or being knocked as mentioned above.
https://www.speedheater.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/SH-Cobra-Manual.pdf The Instruction and Safety Manual for the Speedheater Cobra. The leaflet that comes with Speedheater Cobra provides the link to the Instruction and Safety Manual which is available here: https://www.speedheater.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/SH-Cobra-Manual.pdf
The Instruction and Safety Manual for the Speedheater Cobra has guidance on how to use it on old, dried out paint along with links to further information about lead-safe work practices. When working with old, dry paint the manufacturer strongly recommends adding moisture by applying linseed oil onto the surface and allowing it to penetrate the substrate before you start to heat and scrape it. The oil reduces the risk of dust and helps lead to stay in larger flakes when you scrape if off. The manufacturer has tested this method for working with lead-based paint. When removing older paint there may already be linseed oil paint on the surface – there is no need to remove this as the linseed oil will have penetrated the wood – you can simply paint over the top of any existing linseed oil paint with new linseed oil paint.
No we do not have the rights to sell the Speedheater products in the USA.
The Cobra was designed specifically for use on more intricate elements, such as windows, glazing bars, furniture, etc. The RS model is ideal when removing paint from larger areas like timber houses and cabins.
ORDERS, PAYMENTS , SHIPPING AND REFUNDS
Discounts are for larger projects of 35L onwards.
If you've ordered too much paint, return the unused tins to us. Once we have received them and made sure they are good to sell, we will issue a refund without delay. No refunds are given on bespoke colours.
Refunds on accessories (including Speedheater paint removers) are only given on unused, returned products.
No we don't. The savings we make by not having distributors we can pass on to you by giving you the very best technical advice and a personalised service. Linseed paint is not like conventional paint so we do not want to 'sit' on a shelf next to numerous other conventional brands
